Monday, April 26, 2004

Walking: Part II
NATURE COLUMN BY Wolfgang Rougle

Walking is not just the best way to get around town, but also the best way to get across the country. In this age of six-hour coast-to-coast flights, it’s important to affirm the miraculous hugeness of our continent. The best way to do that is to feel it beneath your feet.

Rebecca Solnit, author of Wanderlust, called walking “a way to make the world big again.” To learn about Montana or Florida on your laptop may be convenient, but I am not sure it is in the best long-term interests of the human mind, or the human soul.

Our minds must confront the vastness of the earth if we are to properly divide its resources and cherish its rarities. Our souls need the same confrontation in order to share in the human birthright of awe.

I’ve never walked across the whole country, but I’ve walked several-hundred-mile stretches of it, and I can heartily recommend that most primitive mode of travel. I don’t think I really knew the meanings of sun, rain, wind, and corn nuts until they were all I had.

Just six generations ago, the choice of feet for a long journey would have been unremarkable. The only other options were horse, boat, or train; and in many parts of the world, fully nomadic societies were still intact. Long-distance walking has been basic to the experience of humanity for all but the past two centuries.

In fact, bipedalism itself is one of our most extraordinary human attributes. Here in North America, only bears and the largest cranes can stand so tall and still have two limbs left over. Next time you go for a walk, think of how you’d live if you had to use both hands and feet in every stride.

You can learn a lot about the world by backpacking in wilderness areas. But wilderness areas exist because the vast majority of America is not wilderness. If learning about America holds any interest for you, it might be a good idea to turn your steps out of the woods and walk along the roads and through the towns.

Contrary to popular belief, walking across America is legal! All public roads except freeways are fair game for the pedestrian. Sleep is legal on most public lands, including, in many small towns, the downtown park.

If you find yourself surrounded by private property when night is falling, you need only knock at a door and ask to sleep on the lawn. I’ve never been refused, and have made some beloved friends this way.

In my travels, I’ve been stopped only twice by police.

One officer earnestly pointed out to me that I’d have better luck hitchhiking if I walked with traffic instead of against it. I explained that I was truly heading north, that I’d be happy to get there on foot, and that we were standing underneath a “No Hitchhiking” sign. He repeated his advice but finally drove away amazed that anyone could be so dense.

The other fellow found me relaxing in the shade after a brief and harrowing walk along a state highway. He grinned at me as he approached.

“Apparently, in today’s society,” he said apologetically, “you make some people nervous.” He was responding to a tip from an alarmed motorist. Deputy Scott gave me his card so I could prove I was harmless to any other alert citizens of Saline County, Kansas.

The greatest pleasure of walking, for me, has been the vindication of my conviction that strangers are not bad. I’ve never been cheated, attacked, or even leered at during my many months on the road as a solitary young woman.

I’ll never forget a woman I met in a small town one Sunday morning. Seeing my backpack and guessing the truth, she whispered, “Girl, you must be crazy. I could never leave home and walk around like that. It’s not safe.”

Her face bore bruises the size of saucers. Someone had beaten her up last night, and I’d be willing to bet it was at home.

I firmly believe that the world outside my house is as safe as the world indoors, and on the whole, I prefer the life of a non-captive animal.

 

WOLFGANG ROUGLE wants to hear about your pedestrian adventures. If you don’t have any, go out and make some! Reach her at wdrougle@ucdavis.edu.

This article first appeared in The California Aggie.


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